Published on October 17th, 2008
The weather took a right turn and thermometer began to drop this week, so a young man’s culinary fancy turns to braising.
This is one of our favorite recipes for several reasons. First, by using a cut of meat not normally used, you promote economic and environmental sustainability by making use of all the beef. The concept goes back to my practical European training where chefs “use everything from an animal.” The short rib of beef is cut from the beef back ribs consisting of seven ribs from the rib section, including the meat between the rib bones.
Second, this is a perfect dish for those cold weather months - curl up around a fire, sip a glass of red wine, and savor succulent braised meat so tender it literally falls off the bone. Lastly, I playfully like to think this recipe playfully illustrates that the concept of “surf & turf” can go beyond lobster and filet. The saltiness of the anchovy rounds out the rich beef flavors and takes this simple dish from ordinary to sublime.
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Published on October 6th, 2008
As summer rolls into fall and fall goes screaming into winter, one’s culinary palate yearns for the muted flavors of braises and stews, the consoling warmth of roasts and for me, the comfort of fried chicken. Yes, I said Fried Chicken.
This isn’t your aunt Flo’s fried chicken. Call it Uncle Thomas’ fried chicken - Thomas Keller, that is.
I’ve adapted a Lemon-Brined, Buttermilk Fried Chicken recipe originally published in the October 2007 Food & Wine magazine from Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc restaurant in Yountville, California.
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Published on September 22nd, 2008
Localism, regionality, indigenous, terroir. What does it mean and why should we care? It’s mysterious. Ask two different winemakers, chefs or farmers for their definition and you will get three different answers.
The classic definition of terroir (pronounced ter-whahr) is “a taste or sense of a place” or it’s an item that “uniquely reflects its place of birth.” Literally, the French translation for terroir is “soil,” a term for the effect of land on flavor.
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Published on September 17th, 2008
Although Panzanella was created out of the need to do “something” with leftover bread, this traditional Tuscan salad is far from the ordinary, not a cliché and certainly not an afterthought. To me, this bread and tomato based salad is the epitome of local, seasonal and flavorful.
One of my culinary passions is bread baking - partially due to my friendship with my colleague master bead maker, author and teacher Peter Reinhart. There is always a loaf or two of something in my kitchen or freezer. Add the fact that our garden is currently bursting with heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, basil and garlic and the equation adds up to Panzanella.
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Published on September 9th, 2008
I’ve had a few run-ins with boxed wine in my day, mostly in college, and they’re experiences I’d care not to revisit. But when I visited a local wine shop that focuses on budget-friendly wines, and saw French Rabbit’s eco-friendly claims, I had to check it out. My thoughts, after the jump… Read the rest of this entry »
Published on September 2nd, 2008
Ukrainian Immigrant Farmer Alexander Velikoretskikh - Mercy Corp NW
As I’ve commented on in the past (see What is Sustainable Cuisine? - Part Two), one tenant of sustainability and sustainable cuisine is social responsibility. The problem that many of us have is motivation and the need for good examples. I know that there is no lack of causes but how can we go green by doing good?
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Published on August 8th, 2008
To misquote Elmer Fund, ” It’s Tuna Season!”
Pacific Albacore tuna season started a bit late this year but is now in full swing, running from July through September. In case you didn’t realize it, Albacore, IS NOT its overfished and mercury-laden tuna cousins. It is troll or pole-and-line caught, endorsed as a “best choice” by Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch and certified sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council.
Albacore tuna (Thunnus alalunga), also called Tombo tuna, is a medium-size tuna found in temperate, subtropical and tropical oceans. Albacore tuna live longer and grow more slowly than other tunas. Most Albacore is sold as high-priced “white meat” canned tuna on supermarket shelves. Fresh Albacore has whitish-pink flesh, fairly soft texture and a mild, leaner flavor compared to other tuna species. I do not recommend Atlantic Albacore because it has been substantially overfished, but Albacore populations have remained abundant and sustainable in the Pacific.
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Published on August 6th, 2008
Carlton Winemakers Studio
If you build a cooperative winemaking facility, they will come. Prophetic words in winemaking circles. The only thing lacking is someone with the vision and drive to make it happen. Enter Eric Hamacher and Ned Lumpkin.
In 2000, the winemakers opened Carlton Winemakers Studio in Carlton, Oregon, a sleepy farming town in Yamhill County, southwest of Portland. The Dundee Hills of Yamhill County resemble the Burgundy region of France like no other place on the planet. A farming region for more than a century, about 30 years ago someone recognized the similarity, and Yamhill County started its slow rejuvenation from agricultural hard times to vintners’ paradise.
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Published on August 6th, 2008
It’s peach season! Fresh peaches are abundant in many farmers’ markets right now, and they are delicious this year. Take advantage of a fresh, local, seasonal ingredient for your evenings on the deck with this summer-in-a-glass recipe for peach wine spritzers.
Fresh Peach Spritzers
6 fresh peaches, quartered (I leave the peels on, but peel them if you prefer)
2 Tbsp honey, or to taste (I like raw honey)
1 bottle inexpensive white wine, chilled
1 liter sparkling water, chilled
Sprigs of fresh mint and peach slices for garnish
Combine honey and peaches in a blender or food processor and puree well (or use a juicer, if you have one.) Pour through a sieve into a large pitcher and chill thoroughly. Add wine and stir to combine. Add sparkling water to fill pitcher and stir gently.
To serve: Pour into tall glasses (over ice if desired) or large wine glasses and garnish with a slice of peach and a sprig of mint. Serves six.
More summery drinks:
Image credit: Cary Bass via a Creative Commons license
Published on August 1st, 2008
Summer is my favorite time of year. The days are long and perfect for hiking, traveling, going to the beach, or just sitting on the porch. And summer is the season of my favorite fruits: berries, plums, and melons! I grew up picking huckleberries every summer in Idaho and am always on the lookout for wild berries. Free, fresh-picked fruit is always the tastiest, and wild blackberries and plums happen to be just ripening for the picking where I live on the Mendocino coast of California.
We took a walk to the beach the other day through an orchard overflowing with ripe plums. Further on, the path was lined with tall blackberry bushes. Needless to say, we had an excess of blackberries and plums for a while. Add to that the fact that a local organic wine was on sale this week, and I naturally just had to make sangria!
My sister lived in Spain for a semester last year, and I had some amazing sangria when I went there to visit her. Of course she knew a recipe for sangria, which the one below is based on. (Thanks sis!) So, with a little local foraging, some fresh-picked seasonal berries, and some local wine, I made a yummy summer drink that can be adapted for any kind of fruit that’s in season. Read the rest of this entry »
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